Relish refocuses on Parisian fare

Stephen Rees opened the doors of Relish on 651 South Avenue
in the spring of 2017 as a catering business and has recently turned it into a
quaint, Parisian dinner restaurant. “I try to keep everything approachable and
not stuffy” Rees says, adding that the difference between the dinner setting
and the grab-and-go catered food is in the sentiment that, “Here’s three hours
of your day where you can forget about everything. We can really take care of
you, really nurture you, whereas catering was more: ‘See you! Have a nice
day!'”

The menu
(which opens like a present and bestows a subtle, clever reveal) says, “Relish:
More than just a tangy condiment”– an open-ended prompt for the guest to savor
every bite, every sip, and perhaps the feat of successfully evading life
worries. The sole server Darby is the literal host at the party who keeps
glasses full and asks, “How are the first bites?” before she floats off to do
the same for another table.

Guests would
be wise to ask what Rees recommends, because the menu is seasonally-based. Rees
says that in the fall the food is more slowly cooked, braised, and often cooked
with wine. Right now, the sous vide turbot (a fish dish featuring the classic,
regional Bercy sauce that Rees spends the entirety of
a day making), is on the menu. For the novice, it’s among the
less-familiar-sounding entrees and is worth exploring for the sake of this
tangy sauce and the accent of sweet corn. And for those who truly appreciate a
multi-dimensional consistency, the crunch of the corn along with a sliver of
pickled zucchini and trout roe puts the dish in a league of its own.

The Parisian
gnocchi, a more recognizable item, is a lighter variation of the traditional
dish. Because it is nestled in a rich mushroom demi (a faux demi-glace, sans
meat) and complemented with smoked, local mushrooms, each bite has an equal
ratio of pasta, mushrooms, cheese, and egg — the dish is both light and
satisfying.

Aesthetically,
the decor is minimalistic and the ambiance is inspired by the hospitality
itself. Guests feel at home at Relish and Rees says that it’s not uncommon to
see a couple making out at a seat in the corner of the room. But even if you
don’t have a sweetheart, you’ll still want to bring company you can enjoy for
the better part of an evening. A two top might easily spend two-and-a-half
hours of their night full of conversation and decadent dishes that appear in
smooth and fluid timing. Of course, Relish is also an ideal spot for the
misanthrope to treat herself to dinner for one and the preferred company of a
good book like a true, stoic Parisian. Relish is where one goes to slow time; the
guest never feels rushed by a server trying to turn tables.

What makes
the dining experience at Relish particularly refreshing in the city of
Rochester is that Rees does not rely on hip DJs, overbearing themes and
eccentric decor, or trendy cocktails to bring in customers. There are no
gimmicks; it’s food first. Guests do not go to the quaint location to be seen
in town, they go to slow time, to enjoy a meal they otherwise wouldn’t make
themselves (because who has the time to prepare the Bercy
sauce?).

Relish is open Wednesday and Thursday, 5:30 to 9
p.m.; and Friday and Saturday, 5:30 to 10 p.m. For a seamlessly French-themed
evening, pair the Parisian dinner with “À bout de soufflé” by Jean-Luc Godard,
or simply to temper the existential “La Nausée” of
Jean-Paul Sartre. 454-2767; relishdelivers.com.

This article appears in Sep 26 – Oct 2, 2018.