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Veramente bello

Even on a Wednesday night, the parking lot at Branca is packed. Waiting for my friend to arrive, I watch the lot’s traffic from my car — for every car that pulls out, another zips in. By the time my friend and I go inside, it’s 7:45 p.m. The hostess apologetically says there are no […]

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DINING REVIEW: On a Roll

Let’s get something out of the way: Part of the appeal of Orbs Restaurant & Bar is that you can make a lot of testicle jokes. “Mmmm! I cannot wait to grab some balls!” Orbs is in on the fun. Meatball sandwiches are called “Balls and Buns,” a meatball sampler is “Bits and Pieces,” and […]

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ROUND-UP: Lighter bites

After weeks of holiday feasting on cookies, cakes, eggnogs, and ham with all the trimmings, I like to reset my palate in the new year by eating lighter foods. That’s not code for dieting; it’s seeking out foods that are lighter in flavor, the way Swiss cheese is more delicate than Parmesan, or lighter in […]

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DINING REVIEW: City Grill

I can’t help but think of big, brash song standards when I think of City Grill. I can hear Frank Sinatra, fedora hat cocked just so, belting out an upbeat tune. City Grill, which describes itself as a contemporary American restaurant, strikes me as having a Rat-Pack-takes-Vegas sort of style. The menu is expansive, with […]

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DINING REVIEW: Balsam Bagels

How are the bagels at Balsam Bagels? They are good — and not just by Rochester standards but by NYC-bagel-capital-of-the-world standards. If Balsam Bagels served its coffee in Greek-styled paper cups, it might be hard to remember which city you were standing in. Balsam’s bagels are dense, tanned circles with a glossy, almost shiny, exterior; […]

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