There’s
nothing particularly odd about opening an ice cream parlor across from an
amusement park, as Churi Csaicai has across from Sea Breeze. The crazy part is
that Churi’s is also a Thai restaurant and clothing store. So, if you want to
wear a sarong while eating pad thai before having an ice cream cone, well, now
you can.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Though Thai food is popular here,
few Rochester Thai restaurants are run by Thai people. Csaisai, who emigrated
from her native Thailand in 1972, provides an exception. “Authentic” is a
dubious term; recipes vary within cultures and change for the better and worse
as they move around the world. But many have told me that Churi’s is the most
“authentic” Thai food in town (I have no personal experience from which to
judge).
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย That aside, Churi’s food is
certainly different from what you’d get at other Thai restaurants in town. The
pad thai, for example, is strong and not particularly sweet, with more citrus,
garlic, and fish sauce than you might be used to. Like most entrรฉes, pad thai
is $6.99 with chicken, $8.49 with beef or pork, and $9.49 with shrimp. The
servings are sharing-size, and vegetarian dishes are available on request.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย You could start with fresh spring
rolls (two for $3), but the Thai don’t eat these, and Churi’s crispy egg rolls
are much better (two for $2). Stuffed with clear rice noodles, bean sprouts,
and chicken, they’re fried in a rice paper and served with Churi’s own sweet
and slightly sassy sauce. Chicken satay is another fun starter: barbecued,
marinated chicken on skewers served with peanut sauce (five for $4.99, also
available with pork).
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย You’ll find all the standard Thai
dishes at Churi’s. There’s gang phet, red curry with coconut, basil, and bamboo
shoots; masamaun, with potatoes and onions in yellow curry and coconut; and
much more. Churi is fond of coconut, so you’ll see a lot of it. For the noodle
fan, there are yellow noodles with broccoli and oyster sauce, and two ways to
have wide, flat, rice noodles: pad se eeu, with a soy sauce, or lad nar, with a
traditional gravy.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย If you like seafood, try the chef’s
special fish ($8.49). Churi lightly fries two filets of whiting, then tops them
with sweet and hot peppers, garlic, green onion, and spices in a light but
potent sauce. It’s a textural bonanza, with the light coating of the fish crisp
against the sauce, and the crisp-tender peppers. Give her some notice, and
she’ll prepare more unusual Thai dishes for you.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Churi’s is a family outfit. Churi is
likely to take your order, then dash off to cook. Her son might bring out your
food, and her husband, Richard Struck, is probably fixing, moving, or improving
something. With three adult children, Churi can’t be as young as she seems; she
has an energy about her that is welcoming and downright fun.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย I love noodle soups, and dug the
Thai noodle soup ($7.49 with beef or pork, $5.99 with chicken). With beef, it’s
like a quick version of Vietnamese pho, though not as subtle (it was chock full
of garlic). I recommend a two-fisted approach: chop sticks for noodles and a
spoon for broth.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย By all means, save room for some ice
cream. Though Churi doesn’t make her own, she has high standards, getting ice
creams she likes from a variety of sources. The coconut almond fudge is
fabulous, and the soft serve is some of the best I’ve tasted, rich and
enormously creamy (not sticky like custard). A “small” cone or dish is just
$1.60 ($2.60 for “large”).
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Churi’s soft serve machine also does
a “flavor burst,” injecting a colorful flavor syrup into the ice cream. It
looks cool, and would appeal to kids (20 cents extra). Of course, you can get
sundaes ($2.45 to $3.35), floats, and shakes ($2.35 to $3.35, powder malt for a
quarter).
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย The word hasn’t gotten out about
Churi’s food. She has a great ice cream parlor location, but not the best for
ethnic food. Actually, she might have a hard time handling much more business.
Churi’s is tiny, with small tables and ice cream parlor chairs, and she cooks
everything to order herself. If you go and find a crowd, your patience will be
rewarded. Churi’s puts a big smile on my face, and my kids love it. It might be
a crazy business idea, but I’m all for it.
Churi’s Ice Cream Parlor & Authentic Thai Cuisine, 4615 Culver Road (across from the Seabreeze main ticket
office), 339-9250. Hours: Monday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.; ice
cream only on Sunday; open until 11 p.m. in the summer.
Food tip
Juan & Maria
Contreras of The Empanada Stop at
the Public Market just purchased El
Conquistador (1939 Clifford Avenue, just west of Donuts Delight &
Savoia Pastry Shoppe). They’ve retained the staff, and will keep the Puerto
Rican menu, but plan to add empanadas and their wonderful green and red sauces.
The restaurant is open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and might add
breakfast in the future. Take-out is also available. Market-goers needn’t
worry: The Empanada Stop isn’t going anywhere.
— Michael Warren
Thomas
Tune in Michael on
Saturdays for gardening, restaurants, and travel (9 a.m. to noon); and on
Sundays for antiques and wine (10 a.m. to noon) on WYSL 1040 AM. Listen live on
the web at www.SavorLife.com.
This article appears in May 21-27, 2003.
