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DINING REVIEW: Acanthus Cafe

A few days before Christmas, my newborn dining companion and I were having lunch at Acanthus Café on East Avenue. She was having breast milk. I was enjoying an uber-fresh plate of chicken salad and a bowl of steaming hot mushroom soup while entertaining a hope that there might be massive brownies full of fudge […]

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DINING REVIEW: Grinnell’s

In the world of restaurants, a place is “old” when it manages to last a decade. At 20 years, people start calling it an “institution.” At 30, the word “beloved” is often bandied about. Almost no restaurant survives to the half-century mark, and those few that do have more often than not long since abandoned […]

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DINING REVIEW: Royal India

It is not Christmas at Royal India. Crouched on the edge of the commercial sprawl that is Henrietta, Royal India sits apart from the celebration of America’s No. 1 consumer holiday, an oasis in a desert of faux holiday cheer. Mommy is not kissing Santa Claus here. Nor is anyone bemoaning giving their heart away […]

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DINING REVIEW: Victoire

Rochester has needed a good Belgian beer bar for at least a decade — which, coincidentally, is almost exactly the amount of time that I’ve lived here. Despite the excellent beer bars and microbreweries that have bred like rabbits across the region in recent years, the lack of a true Belgian joint has been a […]

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DINING REVIEW: Pleased to meat you

It’s a chilly Wednesday evening in early October. The sheds at the Rochester Public Market are vacant, a brisk wind chasing bits of paper and leaves around the wide-open space. On the edges of the market, warehouses, brooding ramparts of industrial-grey concrete and steel rolling doors, stand shuttered and dead under the glare of security […]

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CHOW HOUND: Fiamma, Finger Lakes Restaurant Week, and more

I watched Fiamma co-owner Giuseppe Paciullo slide his pizza-laden peel into a wood-burning oven aglow with flame, turned around to jot something down, then, less than a minute later, heard shocked noises coming from photographer Matt DeTurck: “It’s done!?” Forty-five seconds. That’s how long co-owner Robby Brockler says it takes for Fiamma’s Neapolitan pizza oven, […]

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DINING REVIEW: Thai Lao

Sweat breaks across my forehead. My eyes tear up. My nose is running. And I swear that my ears are ringing. I’ve only scooped one or two tangles of bright white rice noodles from the bowl of lava-red broth in front of me and I’m already in agony — the good kind of agony. The […]

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