Some tamales are so good, you’ll follow directions that start with “use the basement door” to satisfy a craving — the tastiest bites are often tucked just out of sight. Even better when there’s an option to pair that lunch or dinner adventure with a hike at Letchworth, a ski run down Bristol Mountain or a photo stop at the dramatic Chimney Bluffs. Just don’t ruin your appetite with too much trail mix along the way.
Cooperativa Las Cazuelas | Pickup only, Geneseo
Tamales stuffed with chicken in salsa verde, sopes piled high with chorizo and potatoes and red sauce enchiladas topped with cilantro, red onion and cheese — there’s something new to look forward to each month at this Geneseo pop-up. Drawing from family recipes and the flavors of Oaxaca, Mexico, chef-owners Blanca Rodriguez and Juana Avendaño serve up a rotating menu of traditional favorites.
Since 2019, Cooperativa has been preparing Mexican specialties at St. Michael’s Episcopal Church in Geneseo. On pop-up days, the cooking begins at 9 a.m. with ingredients purchased fresh the day before.
“It is as if we are cooking for our own families,” Rodriguez said, adding that knowing customers eagerly await each month’s menu makes the work especially rewarding. “We like to think we are bringing a delicious part of our culture and traditions to their table.”
Someday, the menu may even include mole: a rich, complex Oaxacan sauce that generations of women in their families have taken pride in preparing. Each month’s menu includes a vegan option and everything is gluten-free. Rodriguez wants everyone, regardless of allergies, to enjoy the same sazón (the Spanish word for flavor).
Drinks, sold separately and chosen to complement the food, change with the season, ranging from refreshing pineapple and watermelon drinks in summer to thick, warming corn-based atoles flavored with cinnamon and other aromatic spices in winter.
Pop-ups are usually held the last Friday of the month, with pick-ups from 4 to 5 p.m. (And why not work up an appetite first? Letchworth State Park is a short drive away.)
Follow Cooperativa Las Cazuelas on Facebook or Instagram for upcoming menus, or email coop.las.cazuelas@gmail.com to get on the mailing list. Menus and pre-order links go out about two weeks ahead.
S&S Kultura at Kusina | 14 Main St., Bloomfield
Part-Filipino grocery, part-restaurant and part-neighborhood hangout with karaoke, S&S Kultura at Kusina packs a ton of personality into its cozy Bloomfield space. Owners Shawn and Suzette Woodard dish up Filipino staples: savory chicken and pork adobo; smoky chicken and pork barbecue skewers served in bento boxes with rice and crispy lumpia (Filipino spring rolls); and sizzling sisig — a tangy, citrusy dish with Thai chiles and Vidalia onions. Then there’s pancit canton, their most popular noodle dish, tossed with chicken, shrimp and vegetables.
When the weather cools, warm up with a Filipino hot pot, served steaming at the table on its own stand. Choices range from hearty noodle soups to traditional Filipino favorites. Shawn said the hot pots are a hit with customers rolling in after outdoor adventures. Despite its fancy-sounding name, S&S Kultura at Kusina is a casual spot where hiking boots are welcome, whether you’re exploring local trails or stopping in after a day at nearby Bristol Mountain.
Don’t skip the halo-halo, a technicolor mountain of shaved ice, ube (purple yam), vanilla ice cream, palm fruits, jellies, rice flakes and homemade flan, topped with condensed milk and a drizzle of caramel sauce. “Halo-halo” means “mix-mix,” and yes, that’s a cue to take your spoon and stir it all up before digging in. Shawn makes the flan himself, and some folks swing by just for dessert. Keep an eye on Facebook for weekend specials, too — Suzette often has something cooking that isn’t on the regular menu. Shawn is quick to credit his wife, calling Suzette “the brains and the drive behind this whole venture.”
Seating is limited, and everything is made to order, so call ahead (257-5006), or order online for takeout. S&S Kultura at Kusina is open Wednesday through Sunday.
Made In Mexico | 6564 Route 88, Sodus
At Made in Mexico in Sodus, the handmade corn tortillas arrive at the table tucked into cheerful fabric warmers. They’re perfect for scooping up creamy refried beans that are served alongside chile rellenos (cheese-stuffed poblano peppers topped with red salsa). Pro tip: save a tortilla for those last, glorious bites.
Sisters Gricelda and Fabioala Aguilera started this family run spot, channeling the flavors of Michoacán into every dish. If it’s your first visit, Gricelda recommends the steak tacos or green enchiladas as classic, crowd-pleasing picks. Feeling bold? Go for a pambazo, a Mexican sandwich stuffed with chorizo and potatoes, piled with shredded lettuce, green salsa, sour cream and Mexican cheese, all tucked into a roll coated in red chili sauce.
Friday specials rotate — sometimes it’s chicken or pork tamales, sometimes something else entirely. On Sundays, you’ll find menudo, a classic Mexican tripe soup. Gricelda wishes more people would try the pozole, a hearty hominy soup served with lettuce, lime and onion; perfect for chilly days.
Gricelda makes most of the dishes herself, including those handmade tortillas, with just one other person helping in the kitchen. Her daughter said most customers are locals, but plenty of folks still haven’t discovered this hidden gem and Gricelda is genuinely grateful to everyone who visits. If you need one more reason to visit, Chimney Bluffs State Park and Brantling Ski and Snowboard Center are both nearby. Made in Mexico is open Wednesday through Sunday. Dine in or order takeout online.
Jackie Perrin is a regular contributor to food, travel and business media.
