If sandwiches are trendy and noodles are hot, barbecue is positively
smoking. Try getting a table at Dinosaur, and you know this. People can’t get
enough of smoked meats and sides. That’s all good. As long as the deal is
square and the experience decent, I can eat even mediocre barbecue.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย The
most recent barbecue hotspot is Sticky Lips in the extensively refurbished
Kim’s Carnival Creams location. True to form, the public is flocking. If
Dinosaur is a place for downtown office workers to pretend that they’re Bad,
Sticky Lips wants to be the barbecue restaurant for everyone. It’s quieter, has
better parking, and is more family-friendly (although missing a children’s
menu).
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Owner
Howard Nielsen also owns Chester Cab, and has taken valuable lessons from that
experience. In the ’80s, while trying to franchise Chester Cab, he was
under-financed. This time, with a name and some success to point to, he had no
trouble securing loans, and Sticky Lips looks great. Nielsen has researched
regional barbecue styles, but research isn’t experience, and it’ll take Sticky
Lips a while to smooth all its edges. Right out of the chute, some things are
very good, though.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย The
pulled pork, $8.95 or $10.95 with two sides, is dry-rubbed; cooked slowly in a
big, old smoker; then sauced, if you want, before finishing. The smoky flavor
goes deep, as it ought. Sticky Lips has several sauces. The All-American BBQ
sauce has medium kick, is mildly sweet, and isn’t overly thickened; I like that
you can see its ingredients. The Cherry Bomb Brown sauce is thicker and
sweeter, less spicy. Carolina Clipper Mustard sauce shows Nielsen’s
predilection for mustard.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย You can
get any meat with any of these sauces (as well as others for some). The ribs,
which are very meaty and tender — although a bit dry on one of my three
visits — are excellent charbroiled after a second spice rub, sans sauce (a
big half rack is $8.95/$10.95, full racks are $17.95/$19.95). Sticky Lips
suggests its “special vinegar sauce” for pulled pork, though it’s not as sharp
as this Georgia son would hope.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย The
menu is, perhaps, too long, though Nielsen says most of it is recombination.
Many won’t get past the section of Uncle Frank’s State Fair Chicken. It’s
injected with cayenne and garlic, basted with Nielsen’s Uncle Frank Ognibene’s
“secret recipe,” and grilled over charcoal in a custom, smoker grill. The
chicken is deeply flavorful, with a fabulous skin, though a bit dry on a couple
of my visits (perhaps a function of being kept warm). A breast/wing or
leg/thigh is $4.95/$6.95, while a half chicken is a screaming deal at $6.95/$8.95.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย And
what about those sides? Nielsen admires Dinosaur’s breadth and quality here,
and wanted to do as well with different items. The chili is great, with plenty
of slightly smoky meat and beans, not swimming in tomato soup but alive with
spice. The fries are hand-cut and well cooked. Be ready for mustard and a kick
if you get the macaroni salad. I’m ecstatic at the inclusion of collards and
black-eyed peas, even if they’re a bit heavy on the molasses. The list goes on:
black beans and rice, mashed potatoes, succotash, coleslaw, sweet potato fries,
and even a hearty ratatouille. You’ll make plenty of visits before getting
bored.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย As
stated, the menu is long. If you can imagine appetizers in addition to all
this, there are grilled drumsticks, freshly fried nachos (with the great
chili), and somewhat overly battered catfish strips and fried green tomatoes.
Then there are soups, salads, and piles of sandwiches featuring grilled chicken
breasts, pulled pork, beef brisket, and even salmon. My BBQ bacon cheddar burger
came medium rare as ordered, and was excellent. The “Painted Ladies” (smaller)
and “Flying Fortresses” (larger) sections of the menu give you combinations of
meats. There are even three vegetarian dinner selections.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย It’s a
big operation, and service was unpredictable, though always friendly. Desserts,
made by Nielsen’s cousin Martha Ognibene, are excellent, including key lime and
pecan pie. The building itself is a real star. Originally a Nash car
dealership, then later Culver Dodge, it became a Carvel in the ’60s. Nielsen
uncovered a gorgeous tin ceiling, then built the second floor. A history buff
— he produced the film When Football
Was Bigger than Life, about the heyday of Aquinas High School football —
Nielsen covers the walls with local history, period magazines, and posters.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Howard
Nielsen has a very attractive restaurant going. I’d bring my family,
co-workers, my band, or anybody. He is a smart businessman, and if not
everything is running like a top, my guess is that he’ll fix the little problems
over time. It’s a fun and cool place.
Sticky Lips Pit BBQ,
625 Culver Road, 288-1910. Hours: Monday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.;
Sunday, 1 to 8 p.m.
Food tip
South Avenue continues to add new restaurants apace. Emad
Shatah just opened Baba Emad at 758 South Avenue. (Monday to Friday, 9 a.m. to
6 p.m.) for Syrian takeout and business-only delivery (271-1210). Find it at
the corner of Caroline Street and South Avenue, the entrance on the parking lot
side.
— Michael Warren Thomas
Michael Warren Thomas can be heard on WYSL 1040 AM. Tune in
Saturday mornings for gardening, restaurants, and travel, and Sunday mornings
for Toronto restaurants and wine. Listen live on the web at www.SavorLife.com.
This article appears in Jun 16-22, 2004.
