Big Al Anderson drives up to his
Genesee Family Restaurant and apologizes for opening late, saying he’s been
helping a friend. Priorities matter, and there’s no question that a friend
comes before opening on time for a man raising his seventh and eighth foster
children (he also raised two of his own). Anderson opened this place in 1993,
while he was a project coordinator for Kodak. He left that job in 1998, but
still calls this a part-time gig. The rest of his time is for his kids and his
big brother work.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Anderson
serves what he calls “down home foods.” It’s Southern-based, and different from
soul food in that he makes an effort to decrease the fat content. He learned to
cook as his “mama’s helper” on his family’s farm in Brandon, Mississippi, and
he learned well. This is righteous food, full of flavor and served up in generous
portions, with cornbread for mopping up.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย The
rib dinner fed my two kids twice. Anderson’s trick with ribs is to steam them
tender after grilling. He says if they’re falling off the bone, you’ve gone too
far, and he takes them just far enough. His sauce is sweet and aromatic, not
piquant (perfect for kids). Eight bucks scores an enormous half-rack,
cornbread, and two sides.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Sides
ought to be a main attraction, and these don’t disappoint. Collard greens have
to be cooked just right: underdone, they’re tough; overdone, and you get a pile
of mush. These were crisp-tender, with just a hint of fat, allowing the greens’
sweetness to shine. Candied yams were sinful, with a soul of cinnamon and
nutmeg, soft, sweet, and buttery. Black-eyed peas with bacon are great with hot
sauce, and mac-and-cheese is a simple treat. The cornbread is a bit dry but
just fine as a sponge for sauces.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Running
a restaurant must seem easy to him. One of 16 children, he grew up working his
family’s 26-acre farm and picking cotton. The pay was $2 for 100 pounds, and at
14, he once picked 417 pounds in one day (a friend taught him to pick early,
when dew increased the weight). He also traded odd jobs in exchange for martial
arts lessons, and became a black belt in his teens.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Anderson
later served two tours in Vietnam, being shot several times for his trouble.
Stationed in Germany, he applied for a position teaching self-defense to women.
Because there were over 200 applicants, the colonel held an elimination
kickboxing tournament, which Anderson won. He teaches self-defense, as well as
archery and survival skills, to the kids he works with now.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย The
menu is simple. Burgers are $1.75 and $2.50 ($.25 for cheese), large, and
served on a very good roll with fresh veggies. The fries aren’t fresh cut, but
they’re cooked very well ($1). Three hots are $1.99, and sausage is $2.50.
Bargains abound.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย All
dinner prices include cornbread and two sides. Chicken dinners are $7.50, and
my wife, Anne, loved both baked and barbequed. Ten chicken wings, battered and
fried, are moist and delicious ($5). Pepper steak wasn’t as good, but fed me
twice for $9, and there are also oxtails or chitterlings. (If you don’t know
what chitterlings are, don’t ask.)
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Much
of the business is takeout, but the Genesee Family Restaurant is fairly
comfortable. It’s small, but clean, with good chairs and air conditioning. One
hand-written sign reads, “We give thanks to the Lord and wish all who enter
peace, love, and joy.” Anderson is a wonderful host, often coming over and sitting
with you while discussing your order. Sometimes patrons watch kung fu movies
while waiting for their orders.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย The
Genesee Family Restaurant is a great alternative to your basic greasy spoon
diner. The prices are right, the food is good, and the atmosphere is warm and
welcoming. Some people tell me they’re afraid of Genesee Street, but I go there
all the time and never have problems. Try taking a few steps off the beaten
path sometime.
Genesee Family Restaurant, 211 Genesee
St., 235-3420. Hours: Weds-Sat, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. (call first, though).
Food
tip
The Little Bakery quietly added
sandwiches to its repertoire, and now it’s added a sandwich counter. The bread
is spectacular, and the staff can grill the sandwiches (feta, Portobello, and
roasted red pepper on focaccia is especially good). My daughter likes the egg
salad, and there are several other options. For $5.50 you get a box lunch with
fruit and a huge cookie ($4.50 for just the sandwich).
Michael Warren Thomas
Michael Warren Thomas can be heard on
WYSL 1040. Tune in on Saturdays for gardening, restaurants, and travel from 9
to noon, and on Sundays for antiques and wine from 10 to noon. Listen live on
the web at www.SavorLife.com.
This article appears in Jul 10-16, 2002.
