“Sometimes I
wake up with a taste in my mouth, then spend the day finding exactly the foods
and spices to make that taste,” says Judy Thompson, cook and co-owner of Aunt
Judy’s. The restaurant’s concise menu includes southern staples like fried
chicken, catfish, and greens, but Thompson’s interest in food is deep and consuming.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Judy and husband Tracy met in 1989,
and married in ’93. By 1994, Tracy had a dream of owning a restaurant.
Initially, Judy thought it was crazy, but eventually took a business course
through the Urban League. In January, Tracy’s dream came to fruition.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย “Southern cooking” is the term Judy
prefers to the more confining “soul food.” Broadly speaking, Aunt Judy’s is
similar to the Genesee Family Restaurant. You get your choice of a main dish,
then add a couple of sides from a long list. There are also sandwiches that
don’t come with sides.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย On a City Newspaper Hit Squad lunch, Frank De Blase had fried chicken
($8.50 for a half-chicken with two sides, $5 for a breast and wing, $4.50 for a
leg and thigh). I asked, “How’s the chicken, Frank?” To which Frank replied,
“It’s good. You know, it’s fried chicken.” But it does take touch to get it
right, with a crisp, spicy coating that doesn’t overwhelm, and moist meat. Judy
scored there.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Chad Oliveiri’s decadent smothered
pork chops could have fed two, with thick gravy covering two large chops ($8.75
with two sides). Chris Busby paid $5 for a gargantuan fried haddock sandwich
(slightly larger, even, than Captain Jim’s). The spiced, corn-flour coating is
outstanding — tasty, crisp, and light. The fish was very good, if not quite
the Captain’s.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย When I see collards and candied
yams, I hardly notice the main courses, but settled on catfish ($8.50 with two
sides). It has the same coating as the haddock, and the catfish was sweet and
tender. The collards, cooked with smoked ham hocks (or smoked turkey), were
chopped small and were tender without being overcooked. The yams were a
highlight, just bursting with nutmeg, clove, brown sugar, lemon, and butter. A
side of black-eyed peas with okra was fine, though it made me pine for my mom’s
fried okra.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย On a second trip, I brought my
rib-expert daughters, Lila and Iris. Lila proclaimed them “the best ever.” Judy
gives them two days in her spice rub, then Tracy slow-cooks them over charcoal
and wood, and Judy finishes them with her “million-dollar sauce.” They’re
tender, extremely flavorful, and huge ($9.50 with sides).
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Judy’s macaroni and cheese is also
outstanding. Tracy says that at family gatherings, nieces and nephews want to
know that it’s Aunt Judy’s before eating. That’s understandable; when done
properly, mac-and-cheese bears no resemblance to the sticky, salty Kraft
variety. It can, on occasion, approach the subtlety of a soufflรฉ, and Judy’s
does.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Finally, Aunt Judy’s also has
terrific wings. Deep-fried with the fried chicken coating, they’re enormous
($5.95 a dozen is a bargain). The coating is crisp and peppery, and the meat is
juicy and succulent. Plus, you get Judy’s “million-dollar sauce,” which is
somewhat sweet, a bit sharp, and very complexly spiced. I correctly guessed at
clove, nutmeg, cayenne, and honey, but there was more going on (she admitted to
hickory and little else). You’ll sop up every drop with your bread, guaranteed.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Aunt Judy’s is bright, very clean,
and inviting. Judy and Tracy are the kind of people with whom you’re instantly
comfortable. Their joy shows in big, warm smiles. If you come on a busy night
and want to sit, you might be disappointed. There are only three tables, and
takeout makes up the majority of the business. Judy says getting bigger is
“phase two” of the plan.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย The location is a bit out of the way
if you live south or east, but nothing in this city is far from anything else.
“Southern cooking” isn’t for vegetarians, but the irony there is that the
sides, which are the main attraction, are largely vegetarian. Aunt Judy’s joins a growing list of small, interesting,
family-run spots in town that deserve more general attention than they get.
Aunt Judy’s,
478 Portland Avenue, 454-6006. Hours: Thursday through Friday, noon to 8 p.m.;
Saturdays, 2 to 8 p.m.
Food tip
One of my favorite
food events of the year starts this Friday at Hurd Orchards on Rt. 104, just
west of Brockport. From November 8 to 16, Hurd Orchards serves over 24 dishes
at its annual Thanksgiving Tasting, set in a barn built in 1802. Seatings are
at 6 p.m. and 8:30 p.m. each night. Regulars often bring their own wine and
glasses. At $35 plus tax, it’s a bargain. 638-8838.
Michael Warren Thomas
Tune in Michael on
Saturdays for gardening, restaurants, and travel (9 a.m. to noon), and on
Sundays for antiques and wine (10 a.m. to noon) on WYSL 1040 AM.
Michael@SavorLife.com.
This article appears in Nov 6-12, 2002.
