Meet the strip-mall saucier

Right or wrong, area
foodies consider the west side something of a culinary wasteland. For haute
cuisine, the East End has the Rio, Tonic, Max, and 2 Vine; the eastern suburbs
have Joey B’s, the Erie Grill, and the Victor Grilling Company. Out west,
you’ve got Bernard’s Grove and, well, Bernard’s Grove.

            A year ago, Len Moscowitz was
enjoying a meal cooked by his brother David at the Del Monte Lodge. “Dave,” he
said, “we should open our own place.” Len felt that 100,000 people in Greece
could certainly support a fine restaurant, which seems demographically
indisputable. Thus was born Moscow’s Eclectic Dining, sitting improbably on
Latta Road in a strip mall.

            David Moscowitz is your basic local
pro; his resume includes stints at Oak Hill Country Club, Park Ave. Pub, and
the old Rio Bamba. He called himself, “a prima donna about product,” but it’s
Moscowitz’s experience as a saucier that sets his cooking apart (he credits
Belgian chef Andre Graindorge, with whom he worked at Oak Hill). His veal shank
demi-glace serves as a base for many sauces, and its rich depth shines.

            My first encounter with that stuff
was on a lamb chop special ($24, it will be on the winter menu). Two domestic
loin chops were seared, then served with a mint demi-glace: caramelized mint
jelly fused with Moscowitz’s standard sauce. The idea to incorporate the mint
was inspired, and realized beautifully. The chops were a perfect medium rare,
large, and meaty; I labored over the scraps in the crevices.

            Canadian snow crab cake was as good
as can be expected inland ($8). It came on a bed of “sizzled” spinach, with a
roasted red pepper reduction and a creamy rémoulade. The accompaniments to the
lobster salad ($12) were so good, the prosciutto-wrapped lobster seemed
superfluous. Roasted plum tomato, sizzled spinach, and tapenade were
spectacular in herbed butter, with the tomato and lobster pieces simulating the
body of a small crustacean.

            At its worst, “eclectic” dining
leads to the dreaded culinary train wreck, but not here. Pork pot stickers ($8)
might seem odd next to crab cakes, but that’s your choice to make. Each dish is
successful on its own terms. The pot stickers came with sautéed Chinese cabbage
and another spectacular sauce: fermented black beans in reduced plum wine and
teriyaki.

            Almond-encrusted Chilean sea bass
did nothing to harm our opinion ($18). Dried cherries in a risotto bed were a
great touch. Veal loin Wellington was regal wrapped in puff pastry ($19). The
meat was sweet and tender, and mushroom pâté and fresh spinach were very fine.
The shitake mushroom port wine sauce sent it into orbit. If you’re looking for
quibbles, the roasted red pepper didn’t jibe perfectly with the sauce, and the
steamed vegetables on the side were dull by comparison.

            Michael Warren Thomas claimed the
crème brûlée had the best custard he’s ever had. I also liked the hazelnut
cheesecake, though Michael objected to adulterating the smooth texture. The
wine list is extensive and includes a Dr. Frank Riesling, and there was also a
very good mixed fruit juice (for the non-alcoholic epicure).

            Yes, Moscow’s is in a strip mall.
But it’s tony just the same. Art from the Elizabeth Collection hangs on
deep-red walls, and the lighting is adequate but unobtrusive. The bathrooms are
very nice. The service was clear, attentive, and friendly. If you come on a
weekday, give a call and David will put together a tasting menu for you.

            My guess is we can’t support the
glut of high-end places on the east side much longer. And initially, the idea
of eclectic dining in Greece seems odd. But really, it’s not. Of course Greece
has plenty of patrons for such a place, and they certainly don’t have many
choices. Moscow’s is a terrific restaurant, run by good people. Here’s hoping
it can last.

Moscow’s, 3208 Latta
Road, 225-2880. Hours: Tuesday through Thursday, 4:30 to 10 p.m.; Friday and
Saturday, 5 to 11 p.m. (Open Mondays beginning in October.)

Food tip

Chef’s Day at the
Rochester Public Market is this Saturday from 10 to noon. There will be
grilling demonstrations, and three farmers with newly harvested garlic for
sale. Meet some of Rochester’s best chefs in front of the brick office building
at the center of the Market.

            And be sure to fill out the food
section of your Best of Rochester ballot. Even if you think your favorites
might not have a chance in the poll, we’re interested. Adam and I will be
reviewing as much of the data as we can, and could use the tips from all of
you.

— Michael Warren
Thomas

Michael Warren Thomas
can be heard on WYSL 1040. Tune in on Saturdays for gardening, restaurants, and
travel from 9 to noon, and on Sundays for antiques and wine from 10 to noon.
Listen live on the web at www.SavorLife.com.

This article appears in Sep 11-17, 2002.