Susan Hurd
Machamer and daughter Amy Machamer, partners in Hurd Orchards Farm &
Market, are fascinating people. Before every Hurd tasting, each takes a turn
talking about the evening’s themes, and these women have a lot to say. They
represent the sixth and seventh generations of Hurd family farmers, and that
history is one favorite subject. They often tell of Amelia Orr, who married
into the family in the early 19th century and shared her harvest with Indian
neighbors in the difficult year of 1816.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Both also like to talk about Susan’s
parents, Leland and Betty Hurd. Leland was a well-read man of the earth, and a
real character. One of his quotes was, “You can’t be an atheist and be a
farmer.” Betty Hurd, who met Leland when he auditioned for a play she directed,
described her own life as having gone “from the footlights to the furrows.”
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Amy always tells guests about the
difficulty of contemporary farming. To survive, farmers have to stay abreast of
technology, market trends, and economics, and need to find creative ways to
profit from their harvests. At Hurd Orchards, much of that creativity is
expressed in their Market and in various tastings, lunches, and teas.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย The Market itself — and the 1802
barn in which the tastings are held — are amazing, a combination of stunning
dried flowers, gorgeous displays of jams and sauces, and an intoxicating brew
of floral, herbal, and baked smells. Looking up, you see soft, yellow ladies’
mantel; garnet-colored celosia; brilliant, yellow yarrow; delicate blue
Petrovskia sage; rainbows of annual status, globe amoranth, and larkspur; and
much more.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย For this year’s Thanksgiving
Tasting, the barn was decorated with flowers, wreaths, heirloom apples in
antique boxes, a candle tree, and displays of Hurd products. After the
introduction, 22 dishes were spread among four barn stations and one in the
Market. Each dish contained at least one element from the farm, and in some way
expressed the evening’s themes.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย With fresh produce, simple dishes
are often best. Hubbard squash with cinnamon honey apple spread was a favorite,
rich and just sweet enough. Northern spy applesauce also expressed the season,
as did sliced baguettes with two Hurd preserves, blackberry sour cherry and
pear almond. Goldrush apple and red cabbage was another hit with me. Susan
Machamer had me try a goldrush apple — a new variety — and it’s one of the
best out there: crisp, sharp, and sweet, with a deep flavor all its own.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Creamed broccoli and cheese soup is
often too thick, with mushy broccoli, but here it was the opposite. The thin
broth sparkled with leek flavor, and the broccoli and onion had been allowed to
retain some crispness. I had thirds.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Everybody was talking about the
roasted vegetable tart. The recipe — they give you all the recipes — says to “make a wonderful pie crust,” and Amy
Machamer certainly does. The crust is spread with cheeses; covered with roasted
squash, potato, and parsnip; and baked. The nutty flavor of roasted vegetables
was a perfect complement to the bleu cheese.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Braised beef with chili sauce was
another crowd-pleaser. The beef was very tender and burst with the flavor of
cider. The mild chili sauce gave it a slight panache. I preferred the roast
turkey with an unusual, green tomato mincemeat (dark meat and skin, thank you).
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Can there be too many desserts?
Given the fruit focus of the farm, desserts just had to star. Among the eight
was a chocolate pie with amaretto cherries that was so powerful I couldn’t
finish a small piece. Amy’s nutmeg pudding, somewhere between a bread pudding
and flan, was delicate and aromatic, with Hurd’s blackberries in Chambord the
perfect topping. The belle of the ball, though, was the pear crisp. Made with
Bosc pears, rolled oats, pecans, and spices, it was a miracle.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Hurd tastings are delicious,
tasteful affairs, but not fancy. You get paper plates and plastic cutlery,
though you’re welcome to bring your own. Many also bring their own wines.
Considering the ambience, variety, and quality, this is, at $35, an outstanding
value.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Hurd Orchards presents a Midsummer
Tasting in August, with an even greater variety of produce. Corn, stone fruits,
and fresh berries figure prominently in that menu. But it’s fall produce that
is most distinctive in Western New York. Winter squashes, root vegetables,
cabbages, and especially apples form the heart of our regional flavor. Served warm
on a cold autumn night, they’re gifts from heaven. Bless the Machamers for all
they do; their farm, market, and events are gems of the local culture.
Hurd Orchards Farm & Market, Rt. 104 and Monroe-Orleans County Line Road, Holley; 585-638-8838.
Market hours: May 1 through December 24, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Available by phone
for orders year round.
This article appears in Nov 20-26, 2002.
