Renรฉ’s
Cafรฉ, 617 Whitney Rd.,
Fairport, 388-7480, www2.renescafe.com. Hours: Monday through Saturday,
7 a.m.-2 p.m.; Sunday, 8 a.m.-1:30 p.m.
Rene’s: Dutch treat in Penfield
Renรฉ Kuilman always knew what he
wanted to do. At 13, he worked in a pizza shop, and was, he says, “bitten by
the bug.” If it bites you slinging pies, you’ve got it bad, and Kuilman pursued his avocation with single-mindedness: he
studied food service at BOCES, served food in the army, then
attended the Culinary Institute of America. While studying there, he interned
at a French restaurant in Holland.
Back in Rochester,
Kuilman was executive chef at the Country Club of
Rochester for a decade, and spent three years at the Rochester Yacht Club. After
an unsatisfying stint in food sales, he wanted to return to cooking, but says,
“I just didn’t want to do the country club scene.” He was imagining a unique
diner, one that would incorporate his Dutch heritage a bit.
Kuilman thought he’d found a spot
in Greece,
but the deal fell through. Then one day he drove by the former Joey B’s
location and saw that it was available. Joe Brophy
gave him the keys to check it out, and he never gave them back.
“It was a mess when we came in,” he says, “but my buddy, Bob,
had just gotten laid off from Kodak. He’s a pipe-fitter by trade, and he can do
anything.” The two went from concept to opening in 45 days. The old Joey B’s
had a kind of ramshackle charm, but Renรฉ’s is bright, clean, and cheerful.
With more restaurants competing for fewer dollars, it’s
essential to find a viable niche. Like Rick Stewart at Fishers Station and
Jerry Manley at Flour City Diner, Kuilman is looking
for that viability in upscale diner food. So, sure, you can get toast, eggs,
and breakfast meat ($4.95), but it’s fabulous bacon or
sausage from Swan’s Market. I dug the seven-layer breakfast, with cheese, egg,
bacon, sausage, onion, and garlic baked over home fries ($5.95 with biscuits or
toast).
Kuilman’s breads come from Petrillo’s, but he also does some baking. The biscuits are
small and delicious; you get a pair with most breakfasts or buy them for 50
cents each. I missed the olliebollen,
a Dutch, apple-raisin doughnut coated with powdered sugar ($1.50 for three).
Lunch features soups,
salads, and sandwiches, but again with upscale and Dutch flare. Many
dishes, including the five-onion soup, come with Gouda cheese. My Manhattan clam chowder was
decent if a bit salty.
Kuilman lights up when talking
about his chicken croquettes and crab cakes. Are chicken croquettes available
anywhere else in town? They come garnished with cucumber and mustard for $4.25;
the crab cakes either in salad ($8.95) or as a “po’
boy” ($8.25). I had the po’ boy, and loved the cakes,
though the small, thick slices of French bread made it a bit tough to eat. Next
time, I’d get the salad.
Another bit of ethnicity is “Dutch hot brown,” open-faced
toast with sliced turkey, topped with Gouda
sauce, sautรฉed mushrooms, and bacon ($6.50). My wife, Anne, had Rene’s Reuben,
also served open face ($6.50). You can get it with turkey or corned beef (both
cooked at Rene’s), and kraut or cole slaw. Anne went
with turkey and cole slaw, and it was dynamite.
There are tons of choices: two sizes of burger (5 oz. for
$4.50 or 8 oz. for $6.50), New Orleans muffuletta
wrap ($6.50), a sinful Argentine club (roast beef, horseradish, bacon, lettuce,
and tomato, $6.50), and a host of deli sandwiches. Sandwiches come with chips,
or add soup or outstanding fries for $1.50.
“Save room for dessert,” as the menu says. My family of five
shared one piece of chocolate cake, and it sufficed. “I put as much chocolate
in as I possibly can,” Kuilman says, “so I cut the
cake in three slices to make an extra layer.” It’s huge, rich, and wonderful.
Renรฉ Kuilman thinks people will
spend more for quality, and the place was hopping during my visits. Sandy, his
head waitress, keeps it smooth even when the place is slammed. My family went
at the worst possible time, 12:30 on a Friday, and she handled us beautifully.
And the quality is there. Kuilman wants to grow into
more catering, and wants his employees to be able to grow with him. He’s well
on the way.
Food tip
In July, Debra Sheen transformed Affaire de Chocolat into a retail
operation in East Rochester (226 West Commercial St.).
She makes chocolate roses, truffles, and much more. Only an independent
business could set up hours like this: Wednesdays and Fridays, 10:30 a.m.-6
p.m. But she’s often there other days; just call first. 387-9111,
or www.AffairedeChocolat.com.
— Michael Warren Thomas of www.SavorLife.com
This article appears in Sep 20-26, 2006.
