Steamed snapper and civil reggae

“What I wonder,” says
Casava owner Tony Price, “is how long it took the Chinese to be successful.”
How ethnic cuisines catch on is an interesting question. Take-out Chinese is
nearly as popular as pizza. Thai food has become common, as has Indian. So,
what about Jamaican?

            Rochester has a number of small
places serving Jamaican food. There’s the Island Kitchen at the corner of
Columbia and Genesee, and the wonderful LJ’s on Thurston. But Casava has been
around the longest. Price originally opened in the living room of his house on
Central Avenue back in 1994, serving spectacular steamed snapper and homemade
ginger beer.

            Four years ago, Price shut down and
began building a new restaurant next door. Financiers weren’t lining up —
they shy away from “commercial” establishments in “industrial” districts. But
Price went ahead with some help from his family, and after three years of work,
reopened last November.

            The new Casava looks very different,
with a large bar room in front and an enormous dining room in the back. The
hardwood floor in the huge, open space is striking, and everything is designed
for handicapped access. Jamaican travel posters are the only decorations. The
wall of speakers in the back is somewhat frightening, but the music — what
Price calls “reggae with civility” — is kept low and creates a relaxed mood.

            If you liked the food at the old
Casava, you’ll be pleased to know that chef Rudolph Lyle is still in charge in
the back. The Falmouth steamed fish, a whole red snapper prepared with onion
and spice (allspice standing out), is the signature dish, plenty for two
($18.95). The fish is meltingly tender, and falls right off the bones. Plus,
there’s something festive about the presentation of a whole fish.

            The curried goat is the best I’ve
had, unusually tender and lacking the gamy flavor goat often has ($10.95). The
sauce is complex in its spicing without being overly hot. Oxtails — really
beef tail — are stewed until you can drink the meat off the bones ($10.95).
Oxtails aren’t for the squeamish, but are one of the most flavorful meats on
the planet.

            Chicken comes either jerk or curried
($8.95). The jerk is mild by Jamaican standards (a response to customer
tastes). My girls split the curried chicken, and Price served it on separate
plates. The portion was generous enough to feed them and my wife, with
leftovers for me the next day. The Jamaican curried seafood platter was
marvelous, with a large piece of snapper, five scallops, and four shrimp in a
delicious sauce with onion and sweet pepper ($14.95). A couple bites of Scotch
bonnet practically blew my head off, but in a good way.

            My wife ordered “the vegetarian”
($8.95), which is largely just the sides you get with an entrée. That would be
rice and pigeon peas, steamed cabbage, a trip to a small salad bar, and
spectacular, fried, ripe plantain. If you’re a vegetarian, call ahead and Chef
Lyle will steam fresh vegetables for you.

            Food cost is very important at
Casava, meaning Price keeps the menu short. But he’s willing to make all sorts
of Jamaican specialties given a day’s warning. You could try akee (a savory
fruit) and salt cod, a traditional breakfast food; escoveitched fish (cooked
then marinated in a spicy vinegar sauce); or homemade ginger beer (with rum, if
you like). You might even talk them into making bammy, a griddle cake made from
the restaurant’s namesake, cassava root.

            Price served both our meals, and he
was gracious and attentive. He warned us that the seafood dishes took longer to
prepare, and perhaps because of the warning, the wait didn’t seem bad. Casava’s
location is actually quite convenient, just a minute off the inner loop, with
plenty of free parking. Can Jamaican take off like Chinese and Indian have? The
lack of vegetarian fare is a problem, but this is tasty food in generous
portions, and the atmosphere is inviting. Hopefully, enough people will give it
a chance.

Casava, 420 Central
Avenue, 546-1184. Hours: Tuesday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sat, 3
to 10 p.m.; Reggae Lounge open until 2 a.m.

Food tip

The old Savory Thyme
location at 105 East Avenue near Gibbs Street has been reopened by a trio of
partners as Haleigh’s: Just Good Food. The restaurant opened September 23, and
is slowly expanding its menu beyond salads, sandwiches, grilled wraps, pizzas,
and specials. Desserts are done in-house, and look wonderful. The restaurant’s
beer/wine license is due any day. Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to
9 p.m.; Friday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.

— Michael Warren
Thomas

Michael can be heard
on WYSL 1040-AM. On Saturdays, he discusses gardening, restaurants, and travel
(9 a.m. to 12 p.m.); and on Sundays it’s antiques and wine (10 a.m. to 12
p.m.).

This article appears in Oct 16-22, 2002.