“The woman doesn’t
know how to dream,” says Moses “Unkl Moe” Smith when his wife, Bernice,
complains about his having dragged her from retirement to run a restaurant. But
the tension is an act; the Smiths are clearly in this together. And though they
claim not to have known what they were getting into, they seem very much on top
of the elements of success.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Moe had been catering with his
“grills on wheels” since he and Bernice retired in 1999, and customers had been
pushing him to open a restaurant. He considered a spot on West Main, but it
would have required a complete renovation. The mayor wanted him to take over
the old Louie’s Sweet Shop location, but the parking situation worried him.
Then came the opportunity to take over Tommy’s, across from Tops on West
Avenue. It was already a restaurant, and had plenty of parking. The Smiths put
their money and time into brightening up the place, and opened in September.
Almost from the start, they had plenty of business.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Getting people in the door is good,
but repeat business is all about quality and consistency. Moe says he’s not
serving fast food; when he tried having ribs ready to serve in a steam tray,
they just weren’t good enough. So, now everything that needs to be made to
order is, and the quality shows.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Moe’s ribs are dry-rubbed, slowly
smoked, barbecued, then finally sauced with Unkl Moe’s Sauce. For $8, you get
three meaty ribs, two generous sides, and cornbread. The flavor is deep in the
meat, and the sauce is sweet, smoky, and spicy. I’ve had more tender ribs, but
the flavor is exceptional. If you’re looking for tender meat, try the BBQ pork.
It’s not technically “pulled,” but better than most that is ($7). Slowly smoked
then chopped up with sauce, it had my wife and daughters fighting over the last
bits. (Iris, our three-year-old, won.)
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Moe says, “I want to do for turkey
what the colonel did for chicken.” After trying Moe’s BBQ turkey ($7),
burgerologist and dining companion Stan Merrell said he’d found a new family
takeout staple. Moe wouldn’t tell how the turkeys are done, other than to say
it’s a slow, two-stage process. Rounding out Moe’s BBQ offerings is chicken
($7), and all BBQ meals are always available. A friend recently asked where she
and her boyfriend could eat a good meal out for under $20 (which means under
$16, when you consider tax and tip). Unkl Moe’s provides many good options that
fit that budget.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย I just loved Moe’s fried chicken
($7). It’s dusted with flour, salt, and lots of black pepper, and fried to
order. The coating was crisp and piquant, and the chicken was delicious. I ate
most of the rib bones and really labored to get every edible scrap. In addition
to barbecuing and frying chicken, Moe also serves a Cajun version.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Barbecue is a constant, but
otherwise the menu changes daily. On Mondays, there’s meatloaf with mashed
potatoes ($5.50); Wednesday brings chicken and dumplings ($5.50); and on
Saturdays there are oxtails ($9). Thursday through Sunday, you can get three types
of fish — haddock, whiting, or catfish — fried or grilled ($7.50). My wife
ordered fried haddock, but fell in love with my pork, so I ended up with the
fish. She prefers a battered fish fry, but Moe’s corn meal coating is lighter
and lets the taste of the fish shine (catfish is great that way). Moe says
grits and catfish is one of his most popular breakfasts.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Unkl Moe’s sides are a major
attraction. The yams are sweet and buttery (I prefer a bit more spice, but Stan
said they were ideal). Mac and cheese is light with crispy bits on top. Collard
greens, cooked perfectly, come two ways: with smoked turkey to go along with
poultry, or with ham hocks. There are many others, including black-eyed peas,
corned beef and cabbage, corn, or good-old mac salad.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย But the side that really got me
going was the fried okra, which is often either overcooked and slimy, or
breaded beyond recognition. The trick is to lightly dust it with corn meal and
spices, then fry it fast and hot; it retains its character, and the coating is
magic. Unkl Moe’s is the best you’ll find around these parts. You might not
think you like okra, but try Moe’s and let me know what you think.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Moe’s sister, Jerri Peterson, does
most of the baking. Sweet potato pie is available most days, with banana
pudding on Fridays, and peach cobbler on Saturdays. The homemade lemonade is
delicious, and if you have a taste for genuine sweet iced tea (I don’t), Stan
says Unkl Moe’s is the Real Deal.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย The menu says “gourmet food prepared
with the health conscience in mind,” which, malapropism notwithstanding, isn’t
entirely empty rhetoric. The fried foods are carefully drained, fats are
skimmed out of the stewed dishes (oxtails), and grilled foods tend to be
relatively low-fat. Also, the light corn meal or flour coatings retain less fat
than batters would. A sure sign is how you feel, and I felt great after every
meal at Unkl Moe’s.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Moe Smith was raised primarily by
his great grandmother in Florida. She ran what was called a “delicatessen,”
serving hot dogs, hamburgers, and milk-bar items like shakes and sundaes. “She
was 50 years ahead of her time,” Moe says, “and I grew up knowing I could do
things if I wanted to.” Working on a new business venture after a full career,
raising a child, and being in the military, he certainly has done things.
ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย ย Unkl Moe’s food is some of the best
available at any of the area soul food spots, but the restaurant is larger,
more comfortable, and easier to get to than most of the others. Service is
attentive and friendly. The restaurant needs a high chair, but Moe says he’ll
take care of that. The value is very good as well; portions aren’t monstrous,
but you get plenty of food for seven or eight bucks. If Bernice can put up with
Moe’s dreaming, we can hope to have Unkl Moe’s become an institution.
Unkl Moe’s Bar-B-Que & Catering, 493 West Avenue, 464-8240. Hours: Monday and Wednesday, 6
a.m. to 3 p.m.; Thursday, 6 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 7 a.m. to 10
p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Food tip
A new Ethiopian
restaurant called Dashen has just
opened at the corner of Alexander Street and South Avenue (no connection to
Abyssinia). Sam Ezzezew, an optical engineer, named his restaurant after the
tallest peak in Ethiopia, Mt. Ras Dashen, at 15,157 feet (for comparison, Mt.
Rainier is 14,410). Dashen is open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to midnight
at (232-2690). A sad additional note: Jared’s Global Cuisine, 2500 East Avenue,
has closed, and Jared and his wife, Colette, have moved back to Ohio.
— Michael Warren
Thomas
Tune in Michael on
Saturdays for gardening, restaurants, and travel (9 a.m. to noon); and on
Sundays for antiques and wine (10 a.m. to noon) on WYSL 1040 AM. Listen live on
the web at www.SavorLife.com.
This article appears in Mar 5-11, 2003.
