I found Tony’s Diner & Vietnamese Cuisine by getting
slightly lost. It’s in the previous location of Paola’s Burrito Place & Mexican
Grill, the family restaurant that I’d pass on the left when traveling north on
Culver. Even after Paola’s closed, the building was a vibrantly colored
landmark I used for determining how far I’d traveled. One day, the bright
orange was gone, and I was disoriented when I didn’t realize I had passed it
and was already at Culver and Empire, looking at Donuts Delite.
When I saw
the name of the new place, I was not sure what to expect. What came to mind was
a serving of eggs and waffles topped with fish oil and chili sauce, with a hot cup
of coffee mixed with sweetened condensed milk. Though I am not 100% against the
idea of this, it’s not the case for Tony’s. When owner Anthony Lam opened the
restaurant in January, the original plan was to serve breakfast food in the
morning and Vietnamese food in the afternoon and evening. More people came for
the Vietnamese food, he says, so he stuck with that.
The name
stands, for now. After all, it did draw me in, and when I visited there was a
steady flow of customers entering to pick up orders and leaving with smiles on
their faces.
This is not
Lam’s first venture. He helped his wife Hao Tran open and run Nam Vang on Lyell
Avenue, another successful Vietnamese restaurant on the West Side (they have
since sold the business to open Tony’s). Before Nam Vang, Lam was a chef for
Wegmans for more than a decade, and his skills were so highly acclaimed that he
was requested to train colleagues from other states.
Anthony Lam and
Hao Tran’s own culinary talents and skills do not come from formal training,
though. Their knowledge is based on more than 30 years of work in other East
Asian restaurants throughout the area, as well as memories of family recipes
from their youth. This fact contributes to the unique flavors on the menu.
Nothing is too formulaic; each item has a personal touch.
For example,
according to Anthony’s son and restaurant manager Brian Lam, while some places
use pre-made or frozen dough for their pot-stickers, the wrappings for the gyoza
(chicken, pork, or vegetable dumplings, $6) are made fresh daily from pulped
pumpkin. And the freshest possible ingredients are used in all the dishes;
nothing is frozen, and no powder mixes are allowed. The Sesame chicken is made
from scratch, too. And even with all the care taken for the fresh ingredients
and style, Tony’s is still less expensive than many other restaurants.
Vietnamese
food is gaining popularity all over. It’s more than just phở ($9-$12) and
bánh mì sandwiches ($4). Some
particular food items have become so popular they appear on non-Vietnamese
restaurant menus. But Brian warns that nothing is like the original, and says he
once tried a bánh mì that was half the size of his
father’s sandwich and three times Tony’s price, and used ground pork instead of
the traditional solid, grilled slices of meat and vegetables.
Many come to
Tony’s for the phở because of its distinct flavor, according to Brian.
The in-house recipe for the broth is quite popular; it’s a bit bolder in its
base and a bit less salty than others. Tony’s offers these and other
traditional Vietnamese dishes, such as the bánh xèo
($9), a crispy, savory pancake, which I assumed would be a small appetizer, like
a scallion pancake. To my surprise, bánh
xèo is a meal on its own;
the dish fills half a plate and comes with a healthy portion of greens. The dough
envelopes a mix of shrimp, sprouts, onions, and other vegetables. Every crunch
yielded a burst of flavor.
I also tried
the lighter gỏi đu đủ ($8), a sweet-spicy salad with
shredded papaya and carrots for a base instead of lettuce. It can be eaten as
is, or they can prepare it with shrimp (add $4) or pork (add $2).
As Tony’s grows,
so will the menu. Brian says that his father is working to adjust choices to
accommodate people who are interested in lighter fare or vegetarian and vegan
options.
Openings
Tu Amor Cakery is now open at 1441
South Avenue, offering custom cakes, sweet and savory pastries, and birthday
celebration packages.
Closings
Union Street Bakery at the Rochester
Public Market has closed.
This article appears in Jul 3-9, 2019.
