DISH ’08: Local Food

 BY SUSIE HUME

Live in Rochester
long enough and you’re sure to hear or read about various local landmarks that
are “really Rochester” — places
that would easily make a Top 10 list of all places locals should visit at least
once. But ask around about local cuisine and you’ll probably get some baffled
stares. While Rochester isn’t
necessarily a dining mecca like New
York, Chicago,
or San Francisco, we do have our
fair share of unique dishes that — as the cliché goes — every Rochesterian should try at least once. Buffalo
can keep its wings, we’ve got our own dish to fry.

The “plate”

Arguably the most legendary of all local dishes — it has been
featured on the Food Network and in several print publications — the “plate” is
to Rochester what apple pies are to
America.
“Plate” is the generic name for what is known by most as the “Garbage Plate,” a
name actually trademarked by its creator, Nick TahouHots (320 West Main Street).
That trademark is the reason for the dish’s many alternate adjectives — messy,
sloppy, trash, refuse, dumpster, etc. — found on menus
at many other area restaurants. It could even be argued that you can’t be a
real Rochester dining establishment
if you don’t offer your own take on the “plate.” But the traditional version
consists of a choice of meat (typically either two
hamburgers or two hot dogs) plopped atop a pile of French fries or home fries,
macaroni salad, and baked beans, all covered in “the works” — ketchup, spicy
mustard, onions, and Rochester-style hot sauce (see below).

            With the
ability to polarize even more than the upcoming election, the “plate” divides Rochester
into two distinct groups: those who love ’em (the “it
all ends up together anyway” types) and those who hate ’em
(the food separatists), and there’s really no room for an in-between.

            Where to
find it: This iconic Rochester
food is still served at its place of birth, Nick TahouHots, and at almost every other greasy spoon and
diner in town.

            Recommended: After you’ve tried the original or a decent imitation, try one of its many
spawn, including the “Garbage Pizza” offered by Piatza’s
Pizza Gourmet (365 Park Avenue).

The hot sauce

You can always spot a newly anointed Rochesterian
by the puzzled look on their face after they’ve ordered their first hot
sauce-smothered dish. The confusion stems from their expectation of a sauce
more akin to Tabasco or Frank’s
Red Hot Sauce. But Rochester’s take
on this fiery topping is something quite different. More of a runny chili than
a traditional hot sauce, the local version features finely ground beef and — often
off-putting to first-timers — cinnamon. Somewhat gross, but ultimately
charming, Rochester’s hot sauce is
a truly inimitable taste bud experience.

            Where to
find it: See above. You just can’t make a “plate” without the hot sauce,
and you’ll find it at the same places, plus any street meat cart.

            Recommended: Bill Gray’s (several locations): a good mix of hot and sweet with the strange
addition of turnips; it creates a very distinct flavor.

The white hots

You can get a hot dog in every American city, but order a dog
in Rochester and you’ll be asked to clarify, “white or red?” Outsiders usually
scramble to decide if the hot dogs they are accustomed to are
of the white or red variety, but true locals are clear on the difference. Made
famous by Rochester-based companyZweigle’s,
white hots are a true Rochester
specialty found very infrequently in other cities. They retain their white pork
coloring because, unlike their red brethren, they are not smoked. White hot
aficionados will also attest to the fact that white hots
are distinct in more than just their color: they are often plumper than a
traditional hot dog, and have distinguishing ingredients, often including
mustard and a dairy component.

            Where to
find it: Any establishment whose name ends in the word “hots”
(and there are a lot) is a sure bet, and then most diners, burger joints, and
street meat vendors.

            Recommended: If you order a white hot locally you’re likely to get a Zweigle’s
dog, so order anywhere they’re offered, or just pick up a pack at the nearest
grocery store.

Pizza rolls

Not the kind that come in your
freezer aisle, but not all that dissimilar, a pizza roll is the bastard child
of an egg roll and a pizza. The “Chi-merican” (or
“American-ese,” if you prefer) dish is made from a
thin sheet of dough filled with marinara, mozzarella cheese, and pepperoni,
then dipped in egg and fried. And while it’s hard to trace exactly where and how
the pizza roll was invented, this genius creation is found most commonly in our
fair city. Travel an hour east and pizza rolls more closely resemble stromboli; head an hour to the
west and you’ll simply find the bite-size Totino’s
version.

            Where to
find it: Many local diners and pizza shops offer pizza rolls on the
appetizer or sides sections of their menu.

            Recommended: Try the crispy, melty, and always super-hot pizza
rolls offered at Mark’s Texas Hots (487
Monroe Avenue).

Beef on…wick?

A food specialty that actually has its origins in Buffalo
(specifically at the not-to-be-missed roadside restaurant Charlie the
Butchers), Beef on Weck is one of our region’s most
distinct dishes. The dish gets its name from the locale-specific bread it’s
served on, kummelweck, which is a Kaiser roll coated
in caraway seeds and pretzel salt. The kummelweck, or
just “weck,” is then covered in slow-roasted rare
roast beef, horseradish, and sometimes au jus. And while this is really Buffalo’s
claim to fame, we’ve made this dish our own in Rochester
— not so much by changing the recipe, but more because we kind of messed up on
the name. You’ll be hard-pressed to find a Rochester
establishment that doesn’t mistakenly call it Beef on Wick, a colloquialism on
a regional classic. Nice.

            Where to
find it: This regional classic can be found everywhere from somewhat
upscale restaurants to hole-in-the-wall delis.

            Recommended: Seriously, if you can afford the hour drive, head out to Charlie the Butchers.
If not, Rohrbach Brewing Company (3859
Buffalo Road) serves a good local adaptation of
the “wick” variety.

This article appears in May 14-20, 2008.