Best Of Rochester: Food 

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CRITICS' PICKS
By Johanna Lester, Leah Stacy, and Abby Quatro


Checks-all-the-boxes chocolate chip cookie: Orange Glory
I have eaten so many chocolate chip cookies across Rochester. Like, maybe too many? If you mention a bakery to me, I’ve likely been there; and if you ask if I’ve tried the house chocolate chip cookie the answer would be, eventually, yes. Rochester: we are very good at cookies! But, for easily the past decade-plus (probably closer to two decades if we’re being completely honest and you’re wondering how old I am), my go-to chocolate chip cookie can be found at Orange Glory. Located at 480 E. Main Street (a quick diagonal jaunt from the Eastman Theatre—and formerly housed next door to The Little Theatre), Orange Glory offers daily lunch specials and an array of cookies and other baked goods in an intimate cafe setting. For me, the standout has always been its chocolate chip cookie. It’s not crumbly, but it is soft; it’s not crunchy, but it has texture. It has salt (non-negotiable), heft, layered hints of caramelization, and—perhaps most importantly—has achieved ideal chocolate distribution. I am rarely on board for any outing to include a second location, but I have left lunches in establishments with dessert options only to swing by Orange Glory and grab a cookie to complete my meal. I know it’s divisive, and I’m sure there’s more out there for me to discover, but for now—and, probably forever—this cookie takes the cake. —JOHANNA LESTER


Best pairing pop-up of 2023: Abbina About a year ago, while sitting at the bar of Grace & Disgrace on Richmond St., I convinced (585) magazine publisher Jane Milliman to try her first corndog. We were at the second-ever Abbina pop-up, an a la carte food and drink pairing event by chef Brian Arliss and sommelier JJ Cutaia. And there was a house made corn dog, paired with an herbaceous, saline Walsh & Sons Little Poppet white. It was the kind of event I’d been anxiously awaiting since the end of the pandemic. I caught two more of the pop-ups in 2023: one at Fifth Frame, and one at Melo. I appreciated the use of non-traditional spaces (a brewery, a coffee shop) for the elevated dining experience, and the a la carte option was welcome when I landed at one of the pop-ups after another event and wanted to just try a few of the five courses. (To this day, I’m still thinking about the gazpacho with turmeric shrimp and watermelon over fried wild rice.) I’ll spend money on a pairing dinner experience over a new pair of shoes any day. Events like these make our city more interesting; they add color and the chance for criticism and competition. They can also be a great testing ground for new concepts — which, in the case of Arliss and Cutaia, is what ended up happening. They will open a new space, Vinalia Urbana, in the former Dac-hoa space on Monroe Avenue, this month in partnership with the Joy family (owners of Pourin’ Joy on Park Avenue). While I’m sad to see the Abbina pop-ups end, it’s a sign that something is working. —LEAH STACY


Best new bagel on the scene: Fox’s Deli I’m well aware that my toxic trait (OK, one of them) is my unyielding opinion on all food-related matters. And friends, there is a new bagel in town that’s rocking my world. So, here’s the tea. Fox’s Deli has recently started making bagels, and the quality is top-notch. In classic NY Deli style, they’re slinging traditional water bagels that are hand-rolled, boiled in malted water, and made fresh daily. But the devil is in the details, so let’s break it down. Just looking at these blistered beauties, you know you’re in for a crispy treat. The seed coverage is unmatched in town, which, in my opinion, is a big deal. If I’m ready to pick seeds out of my teeth, I want to go all in. Break open this bad boy and you’ll find an oasis of pillowy chew. I vacillate when it comes to my idea of the perfect bagel. If I’m going for a bacon egg and cheese, it’s hard to beat a puffy New York style bagel. But when it comes to a cream cheese accompaniment, I want a rip and dip bagel with an exterior so crackilly that you might think it’s been deep fried. Somehow Fox’s has managed to strike a nice balance between the styles. Quantities are limited each day, so hurry-scurry to get your hands on some. —ABBY QUATRO


Most under-the-radar restaurateur: Jeff Ching In the local food and beverage industry, there’s a lot of IYKYK. The quiet guy in the beanie standing near the counter at Playhouse? That just might be Jeff Ching, who’s a partner in four of the most popular — and game-changing — spots in town. In 2010, Rochester native Ching returned from Boston, where he’d been managing the Otherside Cafe on Newbury St. (back then, a trailblazer spot for both vegan / vegetarian cuisine and craft beer). That experience led him to found The Owl House (2010), followed by partnerships in The Playhouse // Swillburger (2015), Pizza Wizard (2020), and Strangebird (2021). His longtime collaborator, chef Brian Van Etten, was part of the first three projects as well. Ching is a stay-behind-the-scenes guy. While he’ll acquiesce a press request here and there, he mostly whisks in and out of the spaces — rarely shaking hands and kissing babies, as they say. He’s the kind of partner who builds a good team and lets them operate in their strengths with guidance as needed, and it shows. All four of his spots are go-to favorites for city residents and beyond (and mentioned frequently in this year’s Best Of nominations). —LEAH STACY